Seem Quiet Around Here? Not At My House :)

If it seems like there aren't a whole lot of new posts and recipes for the next few weeks or so, it is because we just had our second baby! I'm a proud and sleepy Dad with quite a bit different priorities for the next bit, but I'll be back soon.

Roasted Corn With Ancho Chili Butter - Recipe

I'm more than a little obsessed when it comes to roasted or grilled corn. Anytime we go to a State Fair or Sons of Norway festival, I head straight for the corn booth, wolf down 3 ears and then regret that I don't have room for a cream puff. Well, not until after we play Whack-A-Mole.

I've been working on the technique at home. Some folks like to peel back the husk, remove the silk, then tie the husk back up before roasting but I've never tried that. I just soak the whole ears in the sink or a clean bucket for 30 minutes, then roast for about 45 minutes over a moderate fire, turning occasionally. You can carefully peel back a bit of husk to see if the beautiful browning is starting to happen. When they are done, let them cool slightly, then peel the husk and remove the silk. I'd recommend gloves and you still have to be careful not to burn yourself.

The ancho chili butter I made to go with the corn has one of the highest yumminess to difficulty ratios of anything I've made in awhile. It tastes great right after you make it, but if you can let it rest in the refrigerator overnight, the fruitiness of the pepper comes out. Just be careful when working with the chilis so you don't get any hot stuff in your eyes or elsewhere. Wear gloves, and work over a surface you can easily clean.

Of course this technique of making compound butters can be applied to just about any herb, spice or flavoring you crave.

(Chili pepper can also be spelled chile pepper, and anchos are sometimes mistakenly called pasilla; if you don't have ancho peppers, you could also use (real) pasillas, New Mexicos, mulatos, or California chilis.)

Ancho Chili Butter
Yields 8 tablespoons, enough for 6 ears of corn
Vegetarian and gluten-free, not vegan

• 1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted (sweet cream) butter, softened to room temperature
• 2 dried ancho chilis
• juice of 1/2 lemon
• pinch of salt

1. Lightly toast the chilis using tongs over a flame, or in a dry skillet.
2. Allow to cool, then carefully (see discussion above), remove the stem and seeds.
3. If you have a mini food processor, put the chilis and the lemon juice in it and grind as fine as possible. You'll have to push it down a bunch of times. Then add the butter and salt and process until well mixed. The chilis will still be in small bits, not perfectly smooth, but they will soften in the butter so that is fine.
4. If you don't have a food processor, chop the chilis as fine as possible with a knife or use a mortar and pestle. Then mix in the butter and salt.
5. Refrigerate in a ramekin, or wrap into a log shape in parchment paper.

Ba-Da Bing! What A Sweetheart!

Bing Cherries

No, I haven't been watching too many episodes of the Sopranos. These beautiful Bing cherries are from Batch's Best Family Farms. I got them from my friends over at ChefShop.com. Tim Mar & his crew have a knack for tracking down great food.

I've never seen 3 pounds of cherries without a single bad one or blemish in the bunch. Clearly the Batch family takes pride in what they do. They are picked ripe and shipped fast, and would make an incredible gift for someone who doesn't live in a cherry-favored part of the country. It is too late to get Batch Bing's for this year, but they still have Sweethearts and Lapins for a few more days.

King Oyster Mushrooms With Pesto, Grilled Polenta, and White Beans

When I saw "French Horn Mushrooms" at Whole Foods (for $19.99/lb), I thought they looked awfully familiar. In fact I would have sworn they were the same as the "King Oyster Mushrooms" for sale at $6-8/lb at our local Asian groceries. Sure enough, either one is Pleurotus eryngii. (Click over to see what they look like raw.)

One way to get a lot of umami flavors from these fungii is to slice them thinly and sear them. I was forced to correct the Wikipedia article that claimed they were tasteless. They brown beautifully, developing a meaty texture which can easily stand up to a flavorful sauce.

For this dinner I paired the King Oysters with grilled polenta, white beans with caramelized onions, and pesto. I made the pesto using Marcella Hazan's decadent method. She has you mix in 3 tablespoons of softened buttter. I wouldn't have tried it if the recipe came from any less of an authority, but I have to say it is awfully good, adding another dimension of smooth sweetness.

This is definitely the time of year to make pesto, as super-fresh basil should be available by the  bushel at your farmer's market (or in your back yard?). If you are shopping at Whole Foods, they also carry a "living basil" with roots still attached in a moist packet. Bring it home and store it on the counter in a glass of water until you are ready to use it, and you'll be rewarded with maximum flavor.

Note that to make the grilled polenta, you have to cook the cornmeal and then let it cool for a couple of hours or overnight, so plan accordingly.

King Oyster Mushrooms With Pesto, Grilled Polenta, and White Beans
Serves 4
Vegetarian & gluten-free (*); not vegan

For Marcella Hazan's pesto (makes a little extra):

• 2 c. packed fresh basil leaves, rinsed and dried
• 1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil
• 3 tablespoons pine nuts (or I used pepitas because of allergy issues)
• 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• salt to taste
• 1/2 c. fresh grated parmesan cheese (parmigiano-reggiano)
• 2 tablespoons fresh grated romano cheese
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

1. In a food processor, spin the basil, olive oil, nuts, garlic and salt until it is a uniform green paste with a bit of texture left.
2. Remove the pesto from the food processor and mix in the cheese by hand.
3. Finally, mix in the softened butter.

For the grilled polenta:

• 2 c. polenta
• 2 t. salt
• 1/2 c. grated parmesan cheese
• olive oil

1. If using a packaged polenta, prepare according to the directions. I really like de la Estancia, which cooks up in just a minute because it is so finely ground. If you are using a bulk polenta, cook in the normal way.
2. Butter or oil a 12" x  12" pan (or something a little larger than that), and pour in the polenta. Refrigerate until cool and firmly set. (You can do this the night before, or at least 2 hours before you plan to serve). You want them fairly thin so the inside will heat up properly; definitely no more than 1/2" thick.
3. Slice into 3.5" squares, brush with olive oil and cook on a grill pan or skillet until they develop a nice crispy crust. Oil well to be sure they don't stick. Remove and season with more salt. You will have more polenta left for another meal.

For the white beans:

• 1 white onion, medium dice
• 2 cloves garlic, sliced thin
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 small can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
• salt

1. In a small skillet over medium heat, cook the onion and garlic in the olive oil until starting to brown.
2. Add the beans, reduce the heat to low, and simmer 5 minutes.
3. Season with salt to taste.

For the king oyster mushrooms:

• 4 large king oyster mushrooms (aka king trumpet or french horn), sliced 1/8" thick lengthwise
• 1/4 c. olive oil
• sea salt (Maldon if you have it)

1. In a large skillet over medium high heat, heat the olive oil.
2. Add the mushroom slices in a single layer. Cook for a few minutes on each side until they develop rich browning on the edges and a slight tenderness. (They will remain moderately chewy / meaty).
3. Drain off any excess oil and season with a good sea salt.

To serve:

1. Divide the beans evenly on 4 heated plates.
2. Top the beans with two squares of polenta.
3. Add 1/4 of the mushrooms.
4. And finally add a generous dollop of pesto. Pass more at the table.

(*) Recipes marked as gluten-free are not guaranteed, and of course I can't be responsible for anyone's safety. The ingredients listed are gluten-free to the best of my knowledge, but if you are serving someone with a gluten allergy (or any other serious allergy), be sure to discuss with them the requirements for their safety.

Vegetarian Paella With Artichokes And Green Beans - Recipe

Vegetarian Paella With Artichokes And Green Beans

I know, when you think paella, you think seafood paella. But the real main event is beautifully cooked, tomato and saffron infused short-grain rice with a caramelized crust (socarrat) on the bottom. Add a few baby artichokes, green beans, and garlic and you've got a terrific vegetarian paella.

We have this beautiful copper paella pan that we received as a wedding present (thanks Anita & Dave!). Theoretically it would serve 3-4, but Sarina and I have very little willpower with this dish, so I use the copper pan when it is just for the two of us. You can do it very successfully in a (non-cas iron) skillet, or buy an inexpensive, dedicated paella pan.

Paella can be a deep topic. Ask 10 Spaniards how to make it right, and you'll get at least 20 opinions. But there is no need to be intimidated. I'll show you a simple method that will give you delicious results. If you feel an urge to learn more of the details, this article by Norberto Jorge is a great place to start. His original article in Fine Cooking got me started on this dish.

Ingredient Notes

For the vegetable stock, you need a clear broth with a mild flavor not dominated by any one vegetable. Be choosy in the store, many of them are thick and soupy or full of MSG. This one from Seitenbacher is my favorite. (Showing you the Amazon link because it has a good picture, not because I think you need a 6-pack. Whole Foods carries it, at least in my area).

Saffron is the world's most expensive spice by weight. Made from the stigma of a crocus flower, it takes thousands to make a single ounce. That makes it tempting for disreputable dealers to adulterate or simulate the product. Fortunately you just need a pinch. Be sure and by the whole stigma, not a powder, and from a brand you trust.  (If in doubt, I can vouch for this one.)

Finally, you have to have the right rice. Please, I beg you, don't go making this recipe with Uncle Ben's or basmati and then tell me it was awful. I believe you. I've always used this one from Matiz which is undoubtedly overpriced, but works beautifully. Someone let me know if they have another traditional favorite.

Enough preliminaries, let's make some paella!

Vegetarian Paella
Serves 3-4 (unless you are greedy like me)
Vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free

• pinch of saffron (see note above)
• 3 T. olive oil
• 3 baby artichokes, prepared as described here, but quartered instead of sliced
• 12 green beans, trimmed
• 1 whole head garlic, top 1/3 trimmed off
• 1 small onion, grated on large holes
• 1 small tomato, grated, or 1 small can of diced tomatoes
• 3.5 cups vegetable broth (see note above)
• 1.5 c. paella rice (see note above)
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary (optional)
• salt to taste
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges

1. Put your 14-inch paella pan over medium heat. Wrap the saffron in a tiny packet of tin foil and toast for a minute over a low flame in the pan. Set the packet aside.
2. Raise the heat to medium-high. Add the oil to the skillet. Add the artichokes, green beans, and the whole head of garlic. Season with salt. Cook about 10 minutes, until the artichokes  are starting to get tender and the green beans wrinkled. Set the vegetables and garlic aside, leaving the oil in the pan. To save time, you can also do this saute in a separate skillet, and start cooking the sofrito of onions and tomatoes simultaneously in your paella pan.
3. While the vegetables are cooking, put the broth in a saucepan and bring it to a low simmer. Using your fingers, crush the saffron into the broth.
4. Set the heat to medium, add the onion to the oil and saute for 2 minutes. Add the tomato, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally for about 5 minutes until the sofrito is dark and pretty dry. It is ok if it sticks a bit. Taste the broth and season if needed.
5. Add the rice and saute for about 1 minute, until it starts to turn translucent, just like you would for a risotto
6. Spread out the rice evenly over the bottom of the pan. Add 3 c. of the simmering broth, which should cover the rice. Arrange the artichokes and green beans like you see in the picture above, and place the garlic in the middle.
7. Simmer about 8 minutes, until the broth no longer covers the rice. Add the rosemary if using. No stirring at any point in this process! Reduce heat to medium low and cook 10 more minutes. At this point the liquid should be mostly absorbed. Taste a grain of rice just below the surface. If it is just slightly al dente, go on to the next step. If it is not done, add a bit more broth or water and continue simmering until it is fairly tender with just a hint of white remaining at the center of the kernel. Pat attention at this stage, because you are walking a fine line between getting the rice sufficiently cooked and adding so much liquid that you can't form a crust in step 9.
8. Cover the pan with a lid or tin foil and cook for three more minutes to make sure the topmost rice is done.
   
9. With the foil still on, raise the heat to medium high and cook for a couple more minutes. You should hear a bit of a crackling noise. The idea is to deeply brown the bottom most layer, creating the prized crust known as the socarrat. You don't want to burn it, but you want to get some serious crust. All of your hard work on this dish pays off if you execute this last step well. Take the top off and poke at the crust with a spoon to convince yourself it is forming.
10. Remove from the heat and let rest with the cover on for 5 minutes or so. Serve with lemon wedges. Everyone can eat from the paella pan, or dish it out onto individual plates.